The experimental tests and theoretical analysis by the authors (1991) indicate that critical value of relative wave height (H/d)b given by Goda and the critical wave steepness (H/L)b given by Michell and Miche can be adopted as the spilling breaking indices of regular waves.
Based on the conception that "the standing wave is formed by two overlapped constant waves spreading energy in opposite directions" and the equation of standing wave, this paper analyses the energy of the standing wave, energy density and density of energy flow so as to find out why the standing wave does not spread energy, and why the density of energy flow is minimum where the energy density is maximum。
The test results in the flume indicate that the system can simulate waves correctly. In the regular wave experiment, the transverse error of wave height is less than 2% , the repeated error of the wave height is less than 1.28% and the period repeated error is less than 0.2%.
In some cases, including analysis on Euclidean space, sphers, hyperbolic space, and certain other symmetric spaces, exact formulas for fundamental solutions to wave equations are available.
For the analogs of the heat and wave equation, we give algorithms for approximating the solution, and display the results of implementing these algorithms.